At the Edge: Tofino & the Wild Pacific

Visited Tofino and Ucluelet, or “Ukee” as the locals call it. Here I walked rainforest trails that wound through ancient forests and down to the beachy Pacific, with that very specific steel-blue-green color I know so well from being born on the West Coast. Some trails were raised wooden boardwalks, others crunched through the damp forest floor under towering Sitka spruce and red cedar, with ferns and moss covering nearly everything.

This stretch of coast sits within Pacific Rim National Park Reserve and is part of the traditional territory of the Nuu-chah-nulth peoples, who have lived along this coastline for thousands of years.

Here you walk among wolves, cougars, and bears (though I didn’t see any). We did see sea lions and bald eagles. One of the best quotes of the trip came from my friend who said, “jeez, these bald eagles are as common as pigeons up here,” as one swooped fiercely around every turn and corner and massive nests dotted the treetops.

There’s also an incredible bike path that runs parallel to the highway between Tofino and Ucluelet, weaving in and out of dense rainforest the whole way. Picture muted greens and a trail that feels almost tunnel-like in places, with mossy trunks and ferns closing in on either side so you feel completely swallowed by the forest even though you are just steps from the road.

On this trip I tried Dungeness crab, which comes from the region. It has a softer shell than king crab and, drawn in butter and lemon, tasted just like lobster tail, which I like.

We also wandered through a few local art galleries, many featuring Indigenous carving and coastal-inspired pieces that felt really tied to the place.

I also found a beautiful natural scent spray in a small shop in Tofino called Aloha, made with pikake, tuberose, and wild ginger. It carries a soft hint of Hawaiʻi too, blending ocean air after rain with warm florals and coastal greenery, like the feeling of saltwater and sun distilled into something you can wear.

There are some nice lodges including the Wickaninnish Inn and spots along Long Beach. It was great to see surfers pull on their wetsuits and hit the waves morning to night, and the sunrise and especially the sunsets were golden and glowy.

I can see living here.